A film otherwise known as: How I Spent my Vacation
The plot: Andrew is going to spend a day/a few days/a week meeting the Asian family for the biggest holiday in the Chinese culture: New Years. Here, he will meet Mei's family's patriarch of a grandfather, as well as the grandmother and Mei's aunts and uncle. Hilarity ensues as he, the akward whitey, tries not only to not be hated, but to actually make mediocrity, or perhaps even inch towards the positive spectrum of Mei's family's eyes.
The all-star cast:Gohng-Gohng: The patriarch (grandfather) of the family. When this guy is happy, the family is permitted to be happy; when he is upset: look out. His biggest thrill is Mahjong, a gambling game played with four people at a time that he has played for probably 70 years. If he wins, he's in a good mood, but when he loses...
Po-Poa: The grandmother. Very, very sweet (at least according to my impression)
Ann: Mei's mom! No introduction needed.
Julia: Mei's mom's (Ann's) sister. Aunt Julia. Like Ann says, she probably doesn't have a hint of badness in her: very, very sweet and very genuine. She previously helped us in Neihu.
Augusta: Ann's other sister. She married Michael, a German who's also in Taiwan for New Years. She's kind, but dramatic.
Michael: German accent. So basically, I love hearing him talk. "Johnathon, you forgot your light-uh!" He's also very, very nice.
Jo-Jo: Mei's Uncle, Ann's brother. The best description I can give will only be understood by Hiro, Raf, and Yuriko, and I have 2-1 odds that Yurkiko isn't reading this. To you three: remember that awesome Japanese movie Hiro rented? The guy who was supposed to take the kid out to see his mom, but stopped to gamble, etc? Yeah, not only does he look EXACTLY like that guy, but he acts the SAME WAY. Hilarious. To everyone else: he seems like he's permamently drunk, but in a funny way. He means well, but is a little odd.
Mei and Andrew: Like we need mention these two all-stars. Millions and millions of people read up on this blog (ok, ok, so maybe just our parents...).
The story:Ann and Mei came up with the perfect gift that I could possibly bring for New Years: learning to play Mahjong. "That will make my father so happy," says Ann. "Just make sure to lose money to him so that he'll be happy!" ... You can imagine what's going to happen already, right?
So we cannot just show up empty handed, nor would I want to even if that was expected. This is Chinese New Years, a holiday that's bigger than Christmas! Not show up with anything except the knowledge of playing a game?! No way. (P.S. even at that I failed: I learned enough for the basics, but I was woefully inadequate...) So Mei and I picked up a nice orchid from the market on the weekend, big enough that I had trouble holding it in one arm on the train.
Tuesday came, New Year's eve, the day we were to meet Ann and the family (Ann flew in Tuesday morning). I was expecting CHAOS on the train (the whole country shuts down, essentially, excluding the expressways of course, because all 23 million people are travelling somewhere else... wherever home is). But surprisingly, things were sedate. A good sign!
We get picked up at the train station, and make small talk with Michael and Augusta. Another good sign! Being able to speak English to another whitey! Nice people! So far so good!
Then the fun begins. We get to the house, and I am introduced to everyone. On one hand, I can't begin to tell you the hospitality that they provide: home-cooked breakfasts and dinners every night (4 days so far), my own room to sleep in in an adjacent house, etc. However...
Here's the thing. I am headed toward a family that cracks up at the thought of a family member having to drive somewhere in the rain, in heavy, heavy traffic, a drive that might be extended by two hours. That's about the creme de la creme. Points and laughs at the guy like Kristy did in high school (the whole wind up, the laughter, and then then pointing). Uh-oh, right?
I try to speak as much Chinese as I can. Only I CAN'T. When I say "Very difficult." (hun nan) I am ACTUALLY saying "Very south." (also hun nan, but DIFFERENT DAMN INTONATION). Jo-Jo thinks this is the funniest thing. So for the rest of the week, Jo-Jo says every chance he can "Very south." Mahjong? "Very south." Learning Chinese? "Very south." Aye-yo. This perhaps nipped my trying to speak Chinese. Besides, everyone can speak English well enough, so why butcher it, right? At least I'll be known for a long time this way, ha.
And then the time comes to play Mahjong. Let's see how well I do. Now, the thing about Mahjong is, is that you play with tiles. You have to move these tiles remarkably fast, at least if you want to catch up with the people who know how to play. I mean, say an 80 year old, who has been playing for just about forever, of course, has arthritis. And on this day, that arthritis was causing a LOT of pain. And say he/she was drunk. And blindfolded. Then you might, just MIGHT have a chance to catch up. I mean.. these people are FAST with the tiles.
So I play, with Jo-Jo watching over my shoulder to help. I'm playing much, much slower than the others, of course, but they are being very patient with me. The first two games, I don't win, but because my discarded tile wasn't the one that led to a victory, I didn't lose, either. So I didn't have to pay any money. On the third game, by luck, I picked up a tile, and... hey! I win! It turns out that if you pick up a tile and win, then nobody loses, right? Because nobody threw the tile that you took to win? So EVERYONE loses, and everyone has to pay you money. I... win! Then, Grandpa gets up and leaves.
STTTTTTTTTTTTRIIIIIIIIIIIIIKE 1!
What's that about me not supposed to win? Huh, well, must have forgotten about that. The competitive juices got flowing in me, and well, I couldn't help it (and also, it was blind, dumb luck picking up that tile... besides, who woulda thought that we'd just play three (or was it 4) games?) I think mostly he left because I was sooo slow and he can't really stand playing with slow people.
Eventually that night came dinner! Woo! New Years dinner, the biggest meal of the week. We all go to this fancy country club, all dressed up and ready for food. And the food kept coming, and coming. Here, everyone was given red envelopes.. including me! I felt so, so, so bad. Here I was, a stranger, and they were giving me money! It was very, very nice, and I really appreciated their genorosity.. Including Mei's cousin, who's a U.S. Marine, and is 6 months younger than me. Don't get me wrong, I was really thankful to be getting red envelopes, but I felt soooooo bad. I didn't have any to give, and I felt really, really, really akward. (Not to mention akward during dinner.) But no worries... that money wasn't destined to be mine, anyway.
I made my second major mistake that night during dinner. Food kept arriving in about 11 separate dishes (or 7, whatever, a lot, I lost count). One of these included meat. Now... you don't just stick meat in front of a hungry dog and expect him not to eat it, right? RIGHT?!? Well, same for me. But the thing is, Grandpa was supposed to take the first bite out of everything that came. Whoooooooooops....
STRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIKE 2!!!!!!!!
Damnit. Huh. So we go back home... and there I am introduced to an aspect of chinese culture that I love: their love for gambling. We play a game called in-between: it's played with a deck of cards (or two in our case), and afetr an ante, everyone is given two cards face up. The goal is to get a third card in-between the other two cards (i.e. you have an ace, the lowest card, and a jack. You want the third card to be a two, three, four... eight, nine, ten.); if you do, you get to TAKE money. If your card ISN'T in-between, you GIVE money. So when it's your turn, you can either pass, or say an amount of money that ranges from 10 (33 cents) to whatever the amount is in the middle of the table (i.e. taking it all, which they then say/chant "Tram-boo, tram-boo, tram-boo!!") You win, you get the money that you bet, you lose, you GIVE the anount of money that you bet. Make sense? It's not complicated, I'm just MAKING it comnplicated.
Oh, man, hilarious. Jo-Jo, the crazy one, kept betting the entire pot (tram-boo), and I think four times he hit the crossbar, i.e. he JUST missed (he has a four and a jack? He gets a four, which incidentaly is the chinese symbol for death), and every time, he gets more and more flabbergasted, "THAT'S NOT POSSIBLE!!!!" or "THAT'S IM-POSSIBLE!!!!!!!", jumping up and rocking back and forth in his dad's walker. I swear, this poor guy, it happened about 4 times. *4 TIMES!!!!* Johnathon, the marine (Jo-Jo's son)? No luck. He lost like every time he bet. Me? Bad luck also, and I kept getting 6/7's, or 7/8's, etc. No chance for anything in-between, right? The ante kept getting higher and higher.. 10 dollars (33 cents US), to 20 dollars (66 cetns), to 100 dollars (3 US). And I kept losing. But I didn't feel bad about losing money.. afterall, it's the red envelope money, right? First night alone I lost $20 US.
The next day, we gamble again and again and again: the result? More Jo-Jo's foul luck, spreading to everyone (Julia had an ace-king, the best possible hand, and gets an ace? Aye! Throw in $US 30!) I think I lost another $15. I'm still up according to the red envelopes, but my guilt in having received them is beginning to dissipate.
That night we go to an auction. Maybe 200 people, maybe more, cramped into a warehouse selling all sorts of goods. My first impression as Ann, Mei, Johnathon and I walk to the other end? Looking across and seeing Jo-Jo raising his hand and buying... 2 mini ironing boards for 100 bucks ($3 US). Hilarious. "What's so funny? Two irons for $3!!" I didn't fit in (DUH, being a tall whitey) but I got less stares than I thought i was going to... they were all probably too busy focused on what they wanted to buy. But it was great; you had things ranging from watering pots (there was one time that they opened them up at random and said, "Ok, if you buy one you can't exchange it later for another!"), to bracelets, to carvings, to globes that you can put things in,. Just random, random stuff. Stolen? Ha who knows.
Anywho, the last two days have consisted of gambling, eating, and watching movies. I went to a market with Julia, Ann, Mei, and Johnathon, and got my fortune at a temple. Apparently I need to convert to Buddhism. I played another game of Mahjong, but beacuse I'm too slow for Grandpa, he won't play with me. I lost more money... $6 US. No more for me. We played another game of in-between and I actually won (so it was only $1 US... at least it flowed in the right direction, i.e. TOWARD me and not away from me). Ann had an Ace King and got another Ace... aye, BUT she won some big ones as well. I went to another day market and bought more great food on the street; fruit, meat on a stick, and fries (made from sweet potatoes... mm...).
Yesterday we went back to the crazy clothes shopping place for Ann to go
shopping. I found cheap movies for 100 dollars each ($3), so I got The Incredibles, Kung Fu Hustle (YES!!! I wanted this!! It's freaking hilarious, I hope it coems out in the States, go watch it if it does.) Closer, and a couple of other recent movies. Pretty neat-o. All in all, I ended up buying more than 10 movies this week. 10 movies!! I own ONE back home. I also got a pair of pants, tailored on the spot for $10 at the equivalent of a Taiwan costco.
It's been a fun time, all in all. Longer than I thought, too. I thought I'd be here a day or two, instead I've been here 5. (I'm editing this on monday after work, since we ended up staying until Sunday.) Meeting Mei's family is (was) great, playing games has been great, being introduced to the Chinese culture has been great. Some things that haven't been so great is that nothing I can do is right. I used to think the Ranch 99 slogan was kind of interesting: For 99, we try harder. Basically we're working to get to 100, right? Well... at first I thought that was a cool slogan. But after living here for a week, it no longer seems innocuous. Why? Because it seems that nothing you can do is right, that's just the Chinese culture: Augusta says coffee will be ready at 9:00 in the morning. You're there at 9:00? Hilarious. "Why are you here? You could sleep in, you know." You're there at 9:30? "Where were you, don't you want coffee or breakfast?" You're there at *11:00*? Aye-yo. Same with speaking Chinese. You're learning? Great, we'er going to make fun of you (of course). You're not learning? Why don't you want to learn the language? Playing Mahjong, same thing. Learning to be slow isn't good enough, right? You have to be good, or why even bother playing? So why does the Ranch 99 slogan no longer seem great? Because it's probably wrong. I am sure people are saying well it SHOULD be Ranch 100, beacuse they're perfect! AND if it was ranch 100, then people would say well it SHOULD be ranch 101, they're BETTER than perfect, and if it was 101, people would say well it SHOULD be ranch 99, they TRY to get to perfection. That's not just for me, a whitey, but I think that's the culture. It makes sense now why when I FIRST got here, our helper at IACC was really, really modest about getting third place in running the 400 for, what was it, the country? He ran it VERY, VERY fast. But to him... to good. mei tried explaining it at the time, but now, I get it a little more.
It might sound like I'm bitter. I kind of am. However, it's much, much easier for me to just nod and say uh-huh, ok, whatever, and then think nothing of it. I'm not part of the family, and in a week I'm gone, right? I'm a whitey just sticking my head in the oven. However, I now am much more appreciative of Mei's comments, and am much more knowledgable. Mei isn't just in for a visit: it's her oven!
But it's been a great week. I'm extremely, extremely thankful for Mei's family's gerat hospitality. It's saturday, and I have to be at work on Monday (NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO), so this is my second to last day here at most. It feels like a month has gone by since I've been at work, partly because being here has been so different. I'm really thankful to experience the Chinese culture, and had a fun time. At the same time, I'm thankful that this isn't my culture (although the food I could get used to!).
I hope you're all doing great... take care!
P.S. In case you were thinking that at least he didn't make it to strike 3...: Strike 3 likely came in the fact that I'm white, and not Chinese. Or was that strike 1? Ah, well, can't win them all, can I?